The Gesäuse has been writing alpine history for more than 200 years. In the beginning, monks of Admont Abbey, herdsmen and hunters stood at the summit of the Ennstal Alps.
Under their guidance the first tourists like Heinrich Hess soon found themselves on the peaks of the Gesäuse mountains as well. Around 1900 the "Ödsteinkante" was one of the remaining “challenges of the Eastern Alps", before the first successful traverse by the "dolomite specialists" Dibona, Rizzi and Mayer in 1910. After the first ascents by tourist who were assisted by local hunters, the "leaderless", who established the concept of the Vienna School in the Gesäuse mountains, followed. They set countless classics that are still regarded alpine standards today: the edge of the Rosskuppe, the Dachl North Wall, the Peternscharten North and Northeast Wall. After the technically wild 60s, "Alpine Modernism" also made its way into the Gesäuse and series of new ascents in free style were found in higher degrees of difficulty. The most frequently visited routes and walls of the Gesäuse have undergone coordinated, general renovation in recent years. Great attention was paid to the preservation of the originality and ultimately the adventure. In many of the routes, you will only find well-equipped stands, and most of the intermediate safety devices have to be installed yourself. This style of restoration does not create the impression that the walls and routes have climbing garden character and therefore length and difficulty are not underestimated. The Gesäuse National Park also contributed to the production of the second edition of the climbing guide "Xeis-Auslese"The accesses to the walls were ecologically analysed and it was agreed upon the most sensible option in each case. Thus, the accesses should be easy to find - an advantage for both, climbers and nature conservation. Parts of the rock faces of the Gesäuse mountains are prohibited areas in the NATURA 2000 protected areathere - in these areas - climbing is prohibited. By the way, the best knowledge and safest climbing in the Gesäuse are the local mountain guides, which you can find here .
Climbing in the National Park - What to look out for
- Climbing on all existing climbing routes
- Use designated accesses (see below)
- Sport climbing in the climbing garden Johnsbach
- Disturbance around incubated nests (golden eagle)
- New construction of via ferrata and climbing areas (also sport climbing areas)
- Attachment of fixed ropes
- Climbing in NATURA 2000 prohibited areas
- have fun
- in the national park not cool, voluntary restriction in favor of nature
- not allowed in the national park, prohibited by law
May we introduce ourselves?
As your companions in the terrain, we provide clear information on the signs. We will tell you where to go and which areas you are not allowed to enter under any circumstances. Whether summer or winter: just listen to us and make a valuable contribution to us and to the undisturbed development of nature. Thank you very much!
The following climbing routes including topos and via ferratas were developed in close coordination with nature conservation. The result: an advantage for nature and athletes. To be read in detail in the „XEIS-AUSLESE“.